Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to discover these tales and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
